Diving is really the only thing Utila has going for it. Don't get me wrong, you can hike a little bit, and see some iguanas, and you can swim out 200 meters from Bando beach and risk getting struck by a boat or take a kayak to snorkel at Light House Reef, but diving is why people go to Utila. That and getting drunk. There re only two beaches and there are not that great. You have to pay to get into one of them. I know some people who decided to walk around the island and they almost killed themselves. The backside is all sharp volcanic rock and there are no roads, and in some places you'll have to swim. Most of the places you'll go snorkeling are on the west side of the island, beyond where the road goes, in the cayes and on the nirthside, and accessible only by boat or kayak. If you try to go on the east side of the island, you'll have to walk out over exposed coral to get to the drop off: bad for the coral and bad for you.

If you want to sit on the beach, go to Roatan. Utila is mostly English speaking and full of backpackers. There are more Spanish speakers and an astonishing number of Italian tourists in Roatan, but lots of people also speak English. You'll need to get around by taxi, or better and cheaper, water taxi. You can also walk on the beach though it is hot and there is little shade, and it can be rocky. There's a airport on utila but it;s not worth the price/hassle, except to see the clear blue water from the sky. Take a ferry from La Ceiba on the mainland, which leaves twice a day. it's very inexpensive, but sit inside so you don't get burned.It's an hour to Utila and a little over 2 to Roatan. There is some unofficial transport between the two islands, usually someone puts up flyers to pay $40 or $50 to ride on their sailboat or yacht between the two islands. The ferry does not run in between islands and it can be fun to save time doing it this way, even if it is about the same cost or more.